There is much contention for the title of best briyani in Singapore, what with the myriad of options available around at hawker centres and restaurants. On a recent food hunt around Joo Chiat Road, I chanced upon a clandestine new contender—Cilantro: The Biryani Club.
The striking scarlet exterior juxtaposed against black lent an air of exclusivity, almost beckoning me into what seemed like a speakeasy. One wouldn’t expect the bar here to be slinging naan and lassi, rather than exquisite cocktails!
The menu consisted mostly of Indian tandoori classics, curries, and their signature dum briyani. Visiting on an empty stomach, we ordered a few of their signature dishes to put them to the test.
Cilantro specialises in Hyderabad dum briyani, originally a royal dish where raw marinated meat is layered with rice and sealed in a pot. There are a couple of grandiose briyani offerings here, such as the Exclusive Angus Tomahawk Biryani ($128+) and the IGA Beef Ribs Biryani ($58+).
Not wanting to break the bank, we went for their more moderate dishes, starting with the Hyderabad Dum Lamb Biryani ($21+). It’s not easy to see the lamb chunks buried under the blanket of basmati rice here, but I can assure you that there were plenty. Each briyani dish was served with Greek yoghurt raita and dalcha, a lentil-based curry.
As the large plate was served, the thick, aromatic fragrance of the basmati rice hit us immediately. It was perfumed beautifully with its wide array of spices, and the fluffy, almost cloud-like texture elevated this biryani beyond other standard offerings.
Upon our first bite, we were simply impressed by how rich and flavourful this biryani was—a complex mix of spices, perfectly absorbing the meat’s flavours, with a featherlike mouthfeel from the rice. A deep, nutty undertone from the cashew nuts, combined with the dalcha curry, further elevated the dish. This definitely cemented it as one of the most impressive biryani rice dishes I’ve had.
The lamb, however, was a different story. While marinated well and full of flavour, it was a mixed bag of textures. Some pieces were too lean and overcooked, resulting in a tough, gamey bite, while others were tender chunks that were utterly satisfying.
We were also intrigued by the Wagyu Brisket Biryani ($29+), in which we were promised “exquisite, melt-in-your-mouth brisket”.
That was a bit of a half-truth, as, like the lamb biryani, the consistency of the brisket was… not consistent. About half the pieces were streaked with beautiful marbled fat, giving a buttery, melt-in-your-mouth texture. The others, however, were overcooked and tough to chew.
We also ordered a portion of Tandoori Chicken ($19+), which was served alongside a green chutney dip.
The chicken was marinated perfectly and seared in the tandoor for that signature charred, smoky flavour. However, it suffered the same fate as the lamb and brisket—some pieces were juicy and tender, while others were dry and tough to bite into.
For drinks, we sampled their Mango Lassi ($7), Iced Teh Tarik ($5), and Iced Coffee ($5). Each drink was bold and straightforward, and was thankfully not diluted.
Stepping into Cilantro is a luxurious experience, with a hushed, warm atmosphere and intimate lighting. Though the restaurant is relatively small and the tables sit close together, there is still plenty of space to accommodate the large plates of biryani that are served.
Cilantro: The Biryani Club is located along Joo Chiat Road, a 15-minute walk from Eunos MRT Station and a 22-minute walk from Marine Parade MRT Station.
Though the meats were somewhat inconsistent, the biryani rice is simply top-tier and hard to beat. While slightly pricey, the generous portions and high quality of the rice more than make up for it. If the meats were to be improved here, there would be no doubt that Cilantro would be the premier spot for briyani in Singapore.
For more eats in the area, check out our Katong and Joo Chiat food guide. You might also be interested in Da Dong Prawn Noodles, a highly-rated prawn mee stall nearby.
Address: 102 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427396
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 11am to 10pm
Tel: 8317 3261
Website
Cilantro: The Biryani Club is not halal-certified.
Photos taken by Mordecai Lee and edited by Marcus Neo.
Cover image adapted from Fok Rupert via Google Maps.
This was an independent review by Eatbook.sg.
Summary
Pros:
– Amazing quality of biryani rice
– Interesting variety of dishes
– Reasonable prices
Cons:
– Meat was inconsistent
– Inconvenient location
Recommended dishes: Hyderabad Dum Lamb Biryani ($21+), Wagyu Brisket Biryani ($29+)
Address: 102 Joo Chiat Road, Singapore 427396
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