Food News

We Visited SG’s Oldest Western “Kopitiam”, Serving Over 100 Items Since 1953

Colbar is the oldest Western eatery in Singapore

After seeing many food establishments come and go, I have gained so much respect for eateries that have withstood the test of time. Colbar is one of them; around since 1953, it’s dubbed the oldest Western eatery, with a kopitiam-esque dining space that once served as a canteen for the British military. Intrigued by its long-standing history, I visited to try three dishes from the 133-item menu.

Colbar specialises in Western and Hainanese fare, and so I got two of the former and one of the latter to try.

There are 12 items on the menu priced at $30 or more, including the Sirloin Steak Egg Chips & Beans ($30). This dish features a thick slab of sirloin steak, a sunny-side-up egg, baked beans, and unevenly cut potato wedges. FYI, you can’t choose the doneness of your steak.

I was a little surprised by the price at first, since the most I’ve paid for a steak at Western stalls is around $20. To be fair, the portion size is huge, which partially justifies the not-so-affordable price. 

While cutting my steak into bite-sized pieces, I expected the meat to be on the tougher side, but thankfully, it turned out tender on the first bite. There was a fatty layer too tough and greasy for consumption, but aside from that, the sirloin steak was decent. 

I also liked pairing my meat with baked beans and sunny-side-up—a nice change from the fancier creamed spinach and grilled asparagus options served at most steakhouses.

I couldn’t pass on the Fried Fish & Chips ($12), which came with the same potato wedges and two deep-fried, battered fish loins.

You get what you see with this dish. The fried fish was nothing to shout about, and I was a tad disappointed that it didn’t come with any tartar sauce. Interestingly, it was served with a calamansi instead of the usual lemon edge.

The huge chunks of potato wedges were delicious, though, and I liked that they weren’t starchy but soft and flaky within.

Finally, I tried the Hainanese Pork Chop ($16), comprising crispy pork chop cut into bite-sized pieces, potato wedges, tomatoes, peas, onions, and greens, all doused in a tangy and tomatoey sauce. You also get a plate of rice!

My colleague commented that it reminded him of the stir-fried sausage and potato dish he used to eat at cai png stalls when he was younger, which explains the nostalgic flavour of this Hainanese dish.

It was a particularly hot day, so my colleague and I ordered an Iced Lipton Tea ($4) and a Fresh Lime ($4.50) juice to beat the heat. If the latter is too sour for your liking, simply head to the counter and ask for some sweetener to mellow down the tartness.

Food aside, the ambience here is truly one-of-a-kind. The walls are adorned with old photos spanning the past to the present, and there are plenty of quaint knick-knacks to check out while waiting for your food.

Nestled in lush greenery, Colbar is a little out of the way—a 15-minute walk from One-north MRT Station—but easy to spot, thanks to its spacious 80 to 90-seater dining area, decked out in bold blue and red accents. The eatery isn’t air-conditioned, but there are huge ceiling fans to keep you cool in the merciless heat.

In related content, read our guide to the best old-school Western stalls in Singapore. For those in the vicinity of One-north, check out Hoodadak Korean Restaurant for legit Korean pork soup and rice.

Address: 9A Whitchurch Road, Singapore 138839
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 11:30am to 8:30pm
Tel: 6779 4859
Colbar is not a halal-certified eatery.

Photos taken by Marcus Neo.
This was an independent visit by Eatbook.sg.

Yoo Kyung

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