Ex-Ma Maison Chef Opens Tonkatsu Restaurant In Tanjong Pagar—Here’s What We Tried

Shin Katsu is a new tonkatsu restaurant in Tanjong Pagar

Image credit: Shin Katsu

CBD folks, there’s an exciting opening in your hood. Shin Katsu is a new tonkatsu speciality restaurant headed by Chef Matsubayashi Masato, the former Head Chef of Ma Maison. The Japanese restaurant in Tanjong Pagar is a collaboration between Chef Masato and The Gourmet Factor, the F&B group that’s behind popular Italian restaurant Fortuna.

With an impressive 4.9-star rating on Google from over 700 reviews at the time of writing, I had high hopes for my visit.

Food at Shin Katsu

Shin Katsu’s menu puts the spotlight on premium pork cuts sourced from around the world and handpicked by Chef Masato. One standout is the Mangalica from Hungary, nicknamed the “Kobe beef of pork” for its beautiful marbling and buttery mouthfeel.

You can get it in the Mangalica Rosu Katsu Set ($42.90++), the priciest item on the menu. Here, a 160g of Mangalica pork cutlet is joined with the usual lineup of free-flow sides—rice, miso soup, cabbage, and house-made pickles—which I’ll get into later.

Yes, it works out to about $50 after taxes, which is undeniably steep for a tonkatsu set, but hear me out: the meat was incredibly juicy inside, with a crispy breadcrumb coating that nailed the perfect crunch. The cut had a natural sweetness to it, without any unpleasant porky aftertaste. As someone who’s not a fan of overly fatty cuts, I was won over by the well-balanced fat distribution and marbling in this katsu.

Limited portions of this cut are available each day, so I’d recommend visiting earlier to chope a set if you don’t mind the splurge.

Otherwise, those who like variety in their meal can consider the Shin Katsu Combo Set ($34.90++), which comprises three types of katsu: Ebi Fry, Kurobuta Rosu, and Kurobuta Hire.

I’m told that Shin Katsu uses a bespoke panko breading method to achieve a light yet crunchy texture, while their signature frying technique locks in all the moisture.

While the meats in this set were faultless—crispy on the outside with a tender middle—they couldn’t quite measure up to the Mangalica cut. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed the kurobuta katsu, but after tasting the premium Mangalica Rosu Katsu, my taste buds were well and truly spoiled.

The prawn stood out instead, thanks to its giant size and perfectly cooked centre. I’d recommend getting this as a side, priced at $9.80++ per piece!

If I were to return to Shin Katsu, the Mille-Feuille Black Truffle Katsu Set ($37.80++) would be my order.

The star of the show was the Japanese-style mille-feuille katsu, made with thin, delicate layers of pork wrapped around a black truffle centre, all encased in the restaurant’s signature breadcrumb coating.

It was my first time trying this unique tonkatsu variation, and I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed it. The pork slices had an almost melt-in-the-mouth quality, while the earthy truffle paste gave the meat an extra umami lift.

Each set comes with refillable charcoal-grilled rice. While I found it slightly wetter than what I’m used to, its texture and natural sweetness paired beautifully with the crispy katsu items.

The rice is pressure-cooked over charcoal, imparting a subtle smoky note that complements the deep-fried meats perfectly.

The free-flow soup was equally remarkable. This wasn’t your usual miso soup—it had a robust, full-bodied flavour that went beyond just miso paste.

Image credit: Shin Katsu

I love a good Japanese curry, and Shin’s house-made Curry Sauce ($4.80++) did not disappoint. I liked that customers can top up for a side of curry sauce—it’s a smart move that lets you customise your meal by adding as much as you want to your rice.

The curry sauce was packed with flavour without being overly sweet. The hint of spice was subtle, allowing the star of the meal, the katsu, to shine. You can also enjoy it as part of a set: the Rosu Katsu Curry Set ($25.80++) with pork loin, the Hire Katsu Curry Set ($26.80++) with pork tenderloin, or the Chicken Katsu Curry Set ($24.80++).

Besides the katsu sets, there’s a decent lineup of sides and starters, great for nibbling on while waiting for your main. Lightly battered, then deep-fried till golden on the outside and juicy within, the Boneless Chicken Wings ($8.80++ for three) are a must-get.

The Potato Salad ($6.30++) was also great for cutting through the grease, though we felt the portion was a tad small for its price.

As a precursor to your meal, you can opt for katsu-ed sides such as the Unagi ($8.80++) or Menchi Katsu ($7.80++), a crispy breaded meat patty. We tried the former, which was perfectly cooked, with a crisp breadcrumb coating and meltingly tender flesh.

We ended dinner on a high note with the Fried Taiyaki with Matcha Ice Cream ($5.80++). The warm, crispy Japanese pancake was stuffed with sweet red bean paste, pairing nicely with the green tea ice cream. It wasn’t anything spectacular or mind-blowing, but I enjoyed the hot-and-cold combination.

Ambience at Shin Katsu

Image credit: Shin Katsu

Shin Katsu is a convenient five-minute walk from Tanjong Pagar and Maxwell MRT Stations. Its central location makes it an ideal spot for post-work hangouts or a quick lunch on WFO days.

If you’re dining solo or with a friend, grab a bar seat to catch all the live kitchen action up close. For small groups, there are a handful of four-seater tables, while cosy private rooms offer a more intimate setting.

The restaurant felt a little warm during my visit, though that might have been because it was nearly full during the dinner rush.

Shin Katsu – Eatbook review

Image credit: Anthia Chng

Shin Katsu is a must-visit for anyone who loves tonkatsu—or anything crispy and deep-fried. While it’s not the cheapest spot in town, given its CBD location and premium ingredients, I think it’s worth the occasional splurge.

For more food recommendations in the area, check out our guide to the best Korean restaurants in the CBD. Otherwise, read our Market At Maxwell coverage for quality matcha lattes at Maxwell Food Centre!

Address: 84/86 Tanjong Pagar Road, Singapore 088505
Opening hours: Daily 11:30am to 3pm, 5pm to 10pm
Tel: 8825 8311
Website
Shin Katsu is not a halal-certified eatery.

Photos taken by Anthia Chng and edited by Tao Zhi Tan.
This was a media tasting at Shin Katsu.