I’ll be the first to admit: I’m not particularly discerning when it comes to wonton mee. I love the dish, but the only distinctions for me are “good” and “meh, won’t order again”. That’s why when I heard the buzz surrounding Koung’s Wan Tan Mee’s reopening just a six-minute walk from Aljunied MRT Station, I was excited to see for myself what the hype was about.
For the uninitiated, the stall used to operate at Geylang Lorong 13 for close to 60 years. Having amassed loyal fans over the decades, Koung’s Wan Tan Mee’s closure in 2023 definitely left fans wanting … mee. Worry not, because they’ve now found a new home at 121 Geylang East Central Kopitiam, the same coffeeshop where you can find Yakiniku Warrior.
We put their signature dish to the test: the Dry Wonton Noodles ($5). As I braced myself for the first mouthful, I wondered if this would be the bite that made me reevaluate my entire perception of wonton mee.
While it didn’t get dramatic to the point where I heard angels singing and harps playing in my head, I knew for a fact that it tasted solid. The noodles, sauce, and char siew were all noticeably more tasty and of a higher standard than the wonton noodles I’ve had prior.
As someone who detests overcooked and mushy noods, I greatly appreciated that their egg noodles were cooked to a toothsome al dente. They were also thoroughly coated in a sauce mixture that’s heavy on lard oil. How do you know that the dish offers greasy goodness? You look like you’ve just applied a fresh coat of lip gloss with each slurp.
Of course, we can’t talk about Koung’s Wan Tan Mee without giving props to their char siew. The stall charcoal-roasts all their own char siew, which gives it a wonderfully smoky flavour and glorious charred ends. That said, I’m usually Team Lean Meat, but certain slivers were rather dry and almost tough to chew. I found myself looking forward to the pieces of char siew with gelatinous fatty bits instead.
I like some heat with my wonton mee, and was intrigued by the look of the chilli sauce which was tinged orange with visible specks of red chillies. My benchmark for wonton mee chilli spice levels is Eng’s Wantan Mee, and while Koung’s had a good kick, it’s not as explosively spicy and borderline painful as Eng’s.
Wonton-wise, the skin was a smidgen too thick. Thankfully, the pork filling in these small handmade wontons was enough to still provide the one-biter with meaty flavour. In other words, you won’t feel like you’re just munching on flour.
To give your plate of noodles even more depth and flavour, help yourself to the bowl of free-flow crispy pork lard at the counter. There’s also a big bowl of cut green chillies for folks who like more tang and a different type of spice.
We also tried their Soup Wonton Mee ($5). For the same price, you get the noodles, char siew slices, and wontons in a comforting, mildly savoury bowl of soup. Personally, I find this version lighter on the palate and perhaps a good choice to order when it’s a rainy day or if I’m feeling a bit under the weather. But it takes away a lot of the punchiness of the dish in dry form, namely Koung’s yummy sauce blend. So, I wouldn’t make a trip down just to get this.
Instead, if it’s something soupy you’re after, I would highly recommend the Dumplings ($4). I didn’t have high hopes since the wonton was of the thick-skin variety, but boy, did the dumplings pack enough filling to more than make up for it!
One look at these plump babies swimming in soup signals how much liao is encased within. Indeed, a chomp revealed that there was an abundant filling of minced meat and even prawn chunks. The addition of water chestnut also gave it a nice crunch.
Koung’s Wan Tan Mee is situated at the left-most edge in a row of stalls at 121 Geylang East Central Kopitiam. The queue can get quite long during peak meal times, so it’s a good thing that there’s an organised system that’s reminiscent of BBT shops, where every order is handed a number card and your number will be flashed on an LED screen when your food is ready.
We recommend grabbing a table at the outer perimeter of the outdoor seating area. It’s next to a wide open space so you can get a nice breeze, people-watch, and soak in some sunlight during the day.
During our visit, it seemed that the recently opened stall was still in the midst of setting up. They brought out a payment system to install, including a card reader. Digital payment QR codes may be available somewhere down the line.
Interestingly, there was no menu board and we’re not sure if they have plans of erecting one. So when in doubt, you can ask the friendly aunty when you’re placing your order just to be sure of the price.
I’m no wonton mee connoisseur, but I know a quality plate of dry wonton noodles when I taste it. The well-executed noodles, liao-loaded dumplings, and charred bits of fatty char siew are well worth a return visit.
While you’re in the area, hop over to Scoop & Sketch for some gelato and waffles, in a vibey setting that even houses a tattoo studio on the second floor. It’s just a four-minute walk from Aljunied MRT Station. If you’re expanding your repertoire of wonton noodle haunts, give Wanton Fu in Jalan Besar a try. Their ngoh hiang is handmade, and they’re open till 2am daily.
Address: 121 Geylang East Central, Singapore 380121
Opening hours: Daily 8am to 7pm
Tel: 6748 0305
Website
Koung’s Wan Tan Mee is not a halal-certified eatery.
This was an independent review by Eatbook.
Photos taken by Casandra Nicholas and Maisie Chong.
Summary
Pros
-Dry wonton noodle sauce blend is tasty and coats noodles well
-Noodles are cooked to al dente donenes
-Char siew pieces have a nice char from being charcoal-roasted
-Dumplings are big and filled with liao
Cons
-Some char siew pieces can be rather dry and tough
-Wonton noodle soup is comparatively bland
-Wonton skin is on the thicker side, and doesn’t have much filling
Recommended dishes: Dry Wonton Noodles ($5), Dumplings ($4.80)
Opening hours: Daily 8am to 7pm
Address: 121 Geylang East Central, Singapore 380121
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