We Tried A $50 Bento From The Famous Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa—Is It Worth The Splurge?

Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa opens in SG with famous unagi don

If you’re a fan of unagi don, you’ll want in on this: Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa, a Michelin-approved Japanese chain with more than 90 years of history dating back to 1932, is now at Shaw Centre. 

The restaurant is led by fourth-generation unagi master Kikukawa Yuhei, who has years of expertise under his belt. At the point of writing, Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa has 35 restaurants worldwide in Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan and more.

There’s a good reason why the unagi don here is so well-loved: each eel is filleted and grilled over binchotan, a type of hardwood charcoal, to achieve crisp, smoky skin and tender, buttery flesh.

Curious to see if it’s worthy of the acclaim, I decided to pay a visit.

Food at Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa

I went straight for the signature Kabayaki Ippon Unagi Set ($48++), which came with a whole grilled eel carefully laid atop a bed of Japanese rice. The set also featured a side of sliced nori, cabbage, and ginger. Kimo-sui, AKA a traditional eel liver soup, was also served.

At first blush, I was struck by the sheer size of the eel—it’s about twofold the length of what you’d usually get in an unagi don in most Japanese restaurants. The second thing that caught my eye was the handcrafted tableware. I later learnt that this metallic-looking tableware, known as Minoyaki, boasts a history dating back to Japan’s 15th to 17th centuries. It’s prized for retaining heat and ensuring the dish stays warm throughout your meal.

A bite of the eel immediately earned my nod of approval. It was grilled till crisp on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth tender inside. Their secret house-made tare sauce also added a sweet-savoury depth to every bite. 

The eel wasn’t just long but also really meaty, enough to fill me up by the time I was halfway through the dish.

As someone who usually avoids innards for fear of a gamey taste, I was pleasantly surprised by the eel liver. It had a springy and chewy texture, unlike the mushy ones I’ve had in the past. The miso broth also had a faint yuzu taste, which helped to cut through any pungent smell or flavour from the liver.

Another must-try is the Ippon Hitsumabushi Set ($50++), which is similar to the Kabayaki Ippon Unagi Set, just that the smoky and caramelised eel is diced into bite-sized pieces instead. The set also came with a side of wasabi, nori, and spring onions to pair with your eel. 

Piping hot dashi broth was also provided to pour over the rice, transforming the dish into a comforting ochazuke after I cleared the unagi. The light-tasting broth paired well with the umami-laden eel, bringing out a nice balance of flavours that was neither heavy nor cloying.

If you prefer your eel as is, opt for the Shirayaki (without sauce) Ippon Unagi Set ($48++) instead. 

It looked underwhelming at first glance, as the eel was served only with a tad of salt. But it only took a bite to realise that the missing sauce only brought out the eel’s natural flavour, enhancing the slight crunch of its skin. If you find the eel a little dry, here’s a tip: generously add some Japanese grated ginger and wasabi to the dish. To further zhng it up, sprinkle some sansho, AKA Japanese pepper.

Mains aside, there are a la carte sides such as fresh Assorted Sashimi ($39++), crispy Eel Bone Cracker ($6++), and savoury Umaki Eel Rolled in Egg ($12++ for six).

To wash down the grease, get the refreshing Cold Roasted Green Tea ($3++) with a slightly earthy taste. Sweet alternatives such as Ginger Ale ($4++) and Pulpy Orange ($4++) are also available.

Ambience at Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa

Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa is located on the road-facing side of Shaw Centre, which isn’t the most convenient spot to get to. But once you’re there, simply push the noren and slide open the wooden door, where you’ll be immersed in a cosy Japanese restaurant decked in warm lighting, wooden furniture, and minimalist decor, similar to a Japanese teahouse. You get a quiet, intimate dining experience here without the noise and fumes from the street.

I also appreciated the open kitchen concept here, which allows diners to see how their unagi is grilled right in front of their eyes over the intense heat of binchotan. Watching the chefs hard at work definitely added to the authenticity of the overall dining experience!

The restaurant is a 10-minute walk from Orchard MRT Station.

Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa – Eatbook review

Now, back to the question we started with. While the dishes at Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa didn’t disappoint, we felt that the prices here were a tad high. We appreciate the effort put into preparing each bento, but they lacked that wow factor to truly justify the $50 pricetag.

That said, the restaurant did a great job of offering a well-rounded Japanese dining experience, from the attention to detail that goes into selecting the finest eel to the thoughtfully designed interior. Perhaps I’ll visit again to take my family out for a good meal!

For a Japanese cafe with pistachio souffle pancakes, unagi ochazuke and more, read our Otter & Pebbles feature. Alternatively, we tried Sakedokoro Eizaburo, a hidden restaurant with XL Japanese don at Fortune Centre to see if it was worth the hype.

Address: 1 Scotts Road, #01-12, Shaw Centre, Singapore 228208
Opening hours: Daily 12pm to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm
Website
Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa is not a halal-certified eatery.

Photos taken by Tan Tao Zhi.
This was a media tasting at Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa.