Janggut Laksa Review: Does The “Original Katong Laksa” Hold Up Today?

Is Janggut Laksa the best Katong laksa at Roxy Square?

It takes a certain pedigree to call yourself “The Original Katong Laksa”. Janggut Laksa claims to be just that—having served up Nyonya-style laksa for over 50 years. We ranked them on the top spot in our best laksas ranked list, even over other popular contenders in the area!

However, the history of the so-called “laksa wars” isn’t as simple as naming one brand the original. Janggut, meaning “beard” in Malay, was the affectionate term used to describe the founder—somewhat ironic given that his “beard” was nothing more than a few long mole hairs. The original outpost was named Marine Parade Laksa, running for a good three decades on 49 East Coast Road before the spot was taken over by 328 Katong Laksa in 1978. 

Marine Parade Laksa resurfaced much later as Janggut Laksa, first at Roxy Square in 2000, then at Queensway Shopping Centre, where their main outlet is now located. Since then, they’ve also opened stalls at Upper Paya Lebar and Chinatown. 

The history of Janggut Laksa is dear to my heart as a resident of the Katong area. However, putting all the memories and legacies aside, I want to answer this question today: does Janggut Laksa hold up as the “Original Katong Laksa”? 

Food at Janggut Laksa (Roxy Square)

For this review, we visited their Roxy Square outlet, right across the street from the (arguably more famous) 328 Katong Laksa. There’s only one item on the menu: Laksa, which you can get in Small ($6), Medium ($7), or Large ($8). 

Upon order, the rice noodles are run through the soup and drained multiple times, as tradition calls for it. This allows the noodles to better soak in the broth, compared to simply dousing them from the get-go. Then, the toppings are added before the final ladling of soup. 

The medium-sized bowl came with three prawns, a smattering of fishcake strips, taugeh, and a generous helping of cockles. A good amount of laksa leaf helped cut through the dish with its bright zing as well. However, we felt that for all sizes, the serving of broth was a little stingy. 

The prawns served were fresh and meaty, while being decently sized. The cockles were bright with that quintessentially metallic tang, making each bite with them brimming with brininess. However, each cockle was rather tiny. 

Now, let’s discuss how the broth fared—perhaps the most important component of a laksa dish. Janggut’s laksa has a distinctive yellowish tinge to it, perhaps signalling a heavier use of coconut milk. There was also a significant presence of coconut curdles, formed through the boiling process in the large metal pot.

While the broth was aromatic, the spices and rempah took a backseat—instead, the savoury hae bee (dried prawn) flavours were to the fore, while still maintaining that creamy lemak richness. However, I would say that the broth was thinner than I would have liked—despite being full-bodied yet smooth, the thin consistency of the broth restrained it from expressing the full spectrum of its potential. 

The accompanying sambal alleviated this slightly, adding a deeper, more piquant dimension to the broth. It wasn’t as spicy compared to other laksa spots, and gave a savoury and slightly sweet boost. I recommend trying the broth on its own first before stirring the sambal in. 

Otherwise, this bowl of laksa is as authentically “Katong” as you will get. Punchy lemak flavours with a moderately spicy kick make each spoonful of scissor-cut noodles a treat—yes, no chopsticks are provided as per the Katong-style tradition! 

Ambience at Janggut Laksa (Roxy Square)

This branch of Janggut Laksa is located at a small coffeeshop on the first floor of Roxy Square. Tables are plenty but are tightly packed, and spill out into the corridor of the shopping mall—making for a rather cramped arrangement as you’ll likely be sitting beside strangers. The stall also only accepts cash, rather inconvenient in our digital, cashless society. Thankfully, the space is fully air-conditioned, and you can purchase drinks or other dishes at neighbouring stalls. 

The nearest MRT Station is Marine Parade, a six-minute walk away.

Janggut Laksa – Eatbook review

While Janggut’s laksa might not carry the weight it once had, each bowl is still satisfying and comforting when standing on its own. They aren’t the cheapest around, but for what you pay, you still get a substantial amount of laksa—though I’d highly recommend getting the medium size, or large for those with big appetites. This might be the go-to spot for an authentic Katong-style laksa—though I’d also suggest trying out 328 Katong Laksa or George’s Laksa nearby to broaden your horizons!

For more great eats nearby in the heritage neighbourhood, check out our Katong and Joo Chiat food guide. The famous Dona Manis Cake Shop has also opened a cafe across the road. 

Address: 50 East Coast Road, #01-64, Roxy Square, Singapore 428769
Opening hours: Daily 10:30am to 4:30pm
Janggut Laksa (Roxy Square) is not a halal-certified eatery. 

Photos taken by Marcus Neo and Tan Tao Zhi.
This was an independent review by Eatbook.sg.