When we first reviewed Cafe Mariam some six years ago, we were blown away by the Changi eatery’s excellent briyani and its Arabic counterpart, mandi. Back then, the owner, Hassan Abdul Majeed, mentioned that he was chasing the authentic flavour that mandi has in its home state of Yemen. Perhaps he feels he has come close, which is why the eatery now only offers mandi, accompanied by various meats.
Some brief lore from our last visit: Hassan has been cooking for almost 30 years now, and has plenty to show for it. The good-natured chef told us about his time spent in all sorts of kitchens, from fine-dining restaurants and banquet cooking on cruise ships, to even working with culinary superstars such as Gordon Ramsay.
Hassan’s father and grandfather were both briyani chefs back in the day, with the latter starting the legendary Islamic Restaurant at North Bridge Road. Cooking runs in their blood, and it’s reflected in Hassan’s work ethic. He’s put a lot of thought into the restaurant, from the food he serves to even small details, such as making his own yoghurt from scratch.
Now that the spotlight is firmly on mandi, we returned to see how Hassan’s cooking holds up today.
We decided to get the Chicken Mendi ($8.50) and Mutton Mendi ($10). As we had another eatery to visit after this meal, Hassan kindly allowed us to order a single portion of mendi rice topped with both meats on one large platter, as pictured above. That’s why it may look a little sparse here, but a regular order typically comes with a generous amount of rice, enough for at least two to share.
Let’s start with the long-grain rice. Compared to the briyani the eatery once offered, it wasn’t as colourful, but had a stronger and more buttery flavour from the ghee it used. Aroma-wise, its smoky notes, tinged with complex spices, made it all the more compelling. Additionally, each grain was fluffy and nicely separated.
The chicken came as a thigh and drumstick, and when we say it was fall-off-the-bone tender, we really mean it. It was gloriously juicy and smoky too, with lightly torched areas on the outside. Hassan’s unique cooking style ensures the chicken doesn’t dry out, while flavouring the rice at the same time.
The mutton, meanwhile, smelled wonderful and had a dark, smoky crust from being seared directly with a blow torch. Despite its appearance, it didn’t taste burnt at all. While our writer previously found the mutton too gamey, we felt it struck just the right balance of meatiness and funk. If anything, that extra punch only whetted our appetites. That said, if you prefer a more balanced plate, the chicken, with its milder flavour, may be the better pick.
The mandi came with a pot of yoghurt. Hassan makes his own in the kitchen and portions it to pair with the meat and rice. It’s thick, sweet, and slightly sour. The yoghurt paired well with the mutton, as its brief but strong flavour helped cut through the gamey meat. There was also a cup of green salsa, which added a spicy-sour kick to the dish.
Cafe Mariam is a seven-minute walk away from Eunos MRT Station. There aren’t many seats at the eatery, so you’ll most likely be eating al fresco and enjoying the scenery while you chow down on a huge platter of flavourful rice.
We’re writing this review a few weeks after our visit to Cafe Mariam, and since then, the excellence of its mandi has only grown in our minds. If you’ve yet to try this gem of an eatery, we highly recommend checking it out. You just might discover the best mandi in Singapore.
For popular fried chicken briyani and prata near Telok Ayer MRT, read our Kamal’s Restaurant review. For Indian food in general, read our best Indian restaurants in Singapore guide.
Address: 116 Changi Road, #01-02, Singapore 419718
Opening hours: Tue-Fri 11am to 3pm, Sat-Sun 11am to 2pm
Tel: 9369 8564
Website
Cafe Mariam is a halal-certified eatery.
Photos taken by Marcus Neo.
This is an independent review by Eatbook.sg.
Summary
Pros
– Delicious and fragrant mandi
– Excellent meat options
– Large portions
Cons
– Limited seating
– Due to how fragrant and flavourful the food is, some may find it too jelak
Opening hours: Tue-Fri 11am to 3pm, Sat-Sun 11am to 2pm
Address: 116 Changi Road, #01-02, Singapore 419718
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