Choon Hoy Parlor Review: New Mod-Sin Restaurant With Retro Vibes, Dry Laksa And Lard-Topped Rice

Choon Hoy Parlor is a new modern Singaporean restaurant in Bugis

If you’re a fan of The Masses like myself, you may have noticed that the popular Franco-Asian restaurant looks a little different now. They’ve recently shifted to a swankier outfit in Capitol Singapore, while their old digs in Bugis are replaced with an all-new concept, Choon Hoy Parlor. The new Modern Singaporean (Mod-Sin) restaurant is run by the same man behind The Masses, Chef Dylan Ong, who was also one-half of the cult-favourite Saveur back in 2011!

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Food at Choon Hoy Parlor

The refreshed space serves unique Mod-Sin fare, dubbed “Singapore Soul Food”: think elevated home-style cooking with a couple of hawker classics done with a twist.

Choon Hoy Parlor is not just a homage to Chef Dylan’s mother, whom he named the restaurant after, but also a team effort—Chef Benji Chew and Chef Renee Tang are working with him to recreate these heritage dishes through a contemporary lens.

You can start with some familiar bites done a little differently here.

CHP Signature Our Rojak, Our Own Way ($8.90++), for instance, presents the popular hawker snack in an elegant manner. This is Chef Benji’s nod to her childhood days of enjoying her mum’s rojak in their hometown, Ipoh.

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You get seasonal veggies, crispy you tiao, century eggs, and peanuts, with the”sauce” reimagined in ice cream form. Served on a bed of ice, each bite was familiar yet different, intensified by the house-made ice cream, which was rich, savoury, and sweet altogether.

I enjoyed the Mini Fried Pomfret ($8.90++ for five) too, where uber-crispy Malaysian pomfret fish are twice-fried, then paired with an umami-packed plum tau cheong (fermented soy bean paste) dip.

There’s also the Masala Lamb On Coin Prata ($12.90++ for three), where lamb masala is simmered for three hours, then propped on a mini coin prata and finished with mint yoghurt. My dining partner devoured these bite-sized, flavoursome “tacos” in no time, though I found them rather pricey for their size.

While we’re on the topic of flavour, the CHP x Jelebu Signature Dry Laksa V2.0 ($18.90++) is one must-order.

Compared to Chef Renee’s first version, this updated rendition boasted a stronger wok hei and flavour. It was also significantly wetter, prepared with a secret rempah sauce and umami-laden prawn broth.

Each portion serves two to three diners, so you’re getting bang for your buck!

Another hearty must-try is Chef Renee’s CHP Signature White Pepper Pig’s Stomach Collagen Soup ($25.90++), suitable for sharing with your party of three to four.

A unanimous favourite across our table, this comforting soup features a house-made stock made with chicken feet, meat, and pork, simmered for at least seven hours. Thereafter, whole garlic, wintermelon, pig stomach and tau kee are added to the broth, resulting in a hearty and nourishing dish for any time of the year.

For more protein, the CHP Signature Hainanese Kampong Chicken ($15.90++ for half, $28.90++ for whole) will not disappoint.

The highlight of this dish was the savoury topping starring a medley of minced veggies spring onion, and ginger. Prepared in true Hainanese fashion, where the bird is first poached and then steamed, the kampung chicken boasted incredibly tender meat and silky, slippery skin.

Dip each slice in their house-made chilli sauce for a winning combination!

Otherwise, their Triple L ($3++) rice serves as the perfect accompaniment for the meat; here, triple L refers to “A Lil Lard, A Lil Soy, and A Lil Love”.

Should you want to fill up on more meat, I’d recommend the CHP Signature 16Hrs Bone-in Coffee Angus Short Rib ($69++ for 700g to 800g), another personal favourite.

Inspired by Chef Benji’s travels in Vietnam, these short ribs are first marinated in a spicy Vietnamese sauce and red rice yeast for 12 hours, before they’re sous vide for another 12. Then, they’re fired up on binchotan and glazed with a sweet-savoury coffee sauce, before being topped with fried garlic chips.

This sweet-sticky slab was truly a labour of love. I’m not usually a big meat eater but I returned for seconds and thirds of the uber-tender, fall-off-the-bone beef—I polished off a good half of the plate!

The dessert menu at Choon Hoy Parlor is rather limited, with just three items to choose from: Yuzu Citron Cheng Tng ($10.90++), Tri-Layered Nian Gao ($11.90++), and CHP Signature Durian Chendol ($13.90++).

Our favourite was the chendol on its own, served with the durian paste separately as requested. You get all the components of a good chendol, deconstructed: gula melaka sponge cake base topped with house-made pandan jelly, kidney beans, corn espuma, and a side of durian ice cream with D24 durian puree.

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The combination of the creamy corn foam with fluffy cake and jiggly jelly made this dessert super enjoyable. Although I don’t consume durian, I can imagine how good it’d taste with the durian puree to those who love the fruit!

Ambience at Choon Hoy Parlor

Image credit: Choon Hoy Parlor

The refreshed interiors look completely different from the old Masses, though the layout is fairly similar with a small bar area on one end. Neon lights, retro-inspired artwork, and old-school folding chairs similar to the ones at Bing Tang Tang Shui fill up the vibey space, which can fit up to 34 people indoors, and 20 outside.

The restaurant is located along Beach Road, a six-minute walk from Bugis MRT Station.

The verdict

Choon Huay Parlor scores for its nostalgic ambience and heritage dishes done with a unique twist. I’ll definitely be back to try out their extensive menu with my parents, who’ll surely appreciate these familiar flavours.

For the full scoop on where to dine during special occasions, read our guide to the best restaurants in Singapore. Otherwise, read our Maru Mochi feature for famous Japanese warabimochi nearby at Bugis Junction!

Address: 85 Beach Road, #01-02, Singapore 189694
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 12pm to 3pm, 5:30pm to 9:30pm, Sun 12pm to 3pm, 5:30pm to 9pm
Tel: 6266 0061
Website
Choon Hoy Parlor is not a halal-certified eatery.

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Photos taken by John Lery Villanueva 
This was a media tasting at Choon Hoy Parlor.

Featured image adapted from Choon Hoy Parlor